Wow! What a momentous year 2024 turned out to be.

We finally managed to sell our house in Sussex and sadly left friends and family behind to head for foreign shores, where we hoped to make our new home.

We had found a house in Corfu in the spring of 2024 and were assured that it would be ours by July, all timed nicely to fit with the completion on Swallowfield Farm. But no, it actually dragged on till the 23rd December, leaving us with chattels in UK storage and, once the sailing season was finished, the prospect of a few damp months ahead living on our boat in the marina.

The deadline for obtaining the golden visa was the end of December and that seemed fine... however, in true Corfu style every deadline was missed, engineers disappeared, boundaries got argued over and so it went on.

Our sellers very kindly said we could move into the house at the beginning of November, so we were at least dry and warm though rather in limbo and not sure if we were staying, or heading back to live in the UK again. Schengen days ran out but, luckily, our solicitor managed to persuade the immigration department to let us stay, but then we were not allowed to leave Greece!

All in all, a very stressful time, but it all finally came right on the 23rd December. On that day, we became legal house owners and legal residents and had not only acquired a delightful property, but a super Greek rescue dog, Beau, into the bargain too.

Exploring the Peloponnese

Oblivious to all the house-moving stress that was to come in 2024, last Spring we headed off in Zulu to explore the Peloponnese region. We left Corfu, sailed through the Ionian and then began the long haul round the famous Peloponnese.

To be honest, the first part of the journey was rather dull and flat, but we were focused on getting round the three notorious capes. The wind deserted us, but we decided to push on to find the other mountains and famous Byzantine and the Venetian forts, which dot the headlands and are testimony to the waves of invaders that have declared this major trading route their own. We took a day off to visit Olympia and eventually arrived in Kalamata (yes of olive fame) to pick up our guests and carry on round the headlands to the Saronic gulf and the islands near Athens.

At this point, major winds decided to arrive and rounding those capes in that breeze (haha!) was not an option. It was a weird feeling because in the marina, at the head of the bay, it all felt reasonably calm, but a quick look at the weather apps showed 35-40Kn winds and large seas. The Capes are famous for ship wrecks, hence they built the Corinth Canal, and I certainly had no intention of pushing a hard sea and wind, to then remain exposed on the coast round the corner.

Kalamata

So, we explored Kalamata and the surrounding areas, both on foot and by car. A day heading out to Messene, which was an amazing historical site and a super monastery that sadly was closed by the time we got there.

A rather challenging drive following the satnav took us very far off the beaten track. We were driving on what can only be called mule tracks or deeply rutted and stony paths. On several occasions we had to get out and walk as the car just couldn’t get up the hill! Luckily, we bumped into a shepherd, who we had seen earlier (mad dogs and Englishmen springs to mind!), who informed us that the path we were about to descend was a complete no-no. Fortunately, we were able to take another path and finally we saw tarmac again. I cannot thank that chap enough!

Finally the wind abated and off we set, hoping to make the first cape before nightfall. We got only so far before the seas started to pick up and we decided to retreat. We managed to find a bay a bit further back up the coast and spent a night being buffeted by the unpredictable winds, but our trusty anchor held tight.

The next day, peace was restored and, as time was ticking, we had to push on round the Capes and didn’t have the time to explore up the fingers. The weather was so calm it was hard to believe the previous day and we spent several days, sadly under motor, but witnessing amazing forts, and very dramatic huge mountains dropping almost vertically into the sea. A real reminder to respect the weather. No wonder so many ships got blown onshore and wrecked.

Saronic Gulf

We finally entered the Saronic Gulf and spent a lovely few days exploring several of the islands of which Hydra remains a firm favourite. No cars allowed on the island, donkey or horse only. A lovely busy port, hopeless for yachts, so we took a local water taxi from our mooring on another island and had a great day out.

We eventually said goodbye to our guests in Aegina where we managed to find a mooring on the bustling quayside and they headed off on the ferry to Athens. We were sad to see them go as we had really had such an amazing time together, despite our best laid plans having to be rejigged. This is always the risk for sailing, which is why we often make our holidays longer, so should the weather not behave, you don’t end up missing out.

The Magical Corinth Canal

With new guests on board, we agreed to take a detour to visit the amazing Oracle at Delphi. An incredible site both geographically and historically. We then headed over to the Corinth Canal to make our way back to the Ionian and Corfu. The Canal was truly impressive and to think it was hand dug… OMG! There was evidence of the landfalls which had closed it over the winter these last few years for repairs. The width was so narrow and the water so clear. I really don’t know how they get the cruise ships through there. There is also a kayak group who book to canoe through it, possibly at night? That looks like it would be an amazing experience.

The Gulf of Corinth was a bit of a mixed bag. We saw seas of floating sea salps. It is phosphorescent at night and looks like chains of underwater LED lights, very weird. None of us fancied swimming in those although they are harmless … and we think some got sucked into our generator whilst we were at anchor and stuffed the impeller! A couple of other picturesque historic harbours, the very impressive bridge at Patras and the houses on stilts in Methoni where there is a river delta, home to feasting mosquitos.

We finally made it back to the Ionian where steep wooded mountains and calm blue seas awaited us. We dropped anchor in our favourite bay, that we have called Blue House Bay near Eufemia on Kefalonia, and then the next day headed back to Eufemia to allow our guests to head toward the airport.

We had had a lovely 10 days. I had been skippering without Simon on this trip and it was good to see him back on board again.

Croatia This Time!

In the autumn we headed off to Croatia. It was a 36-hour passage including a night sail from Corfu to checking in at Dubrovnik. We left in calm conditions with good weather predicted for the next 36 hours. However, as the day wore on the wind and sea strengthened until we were pushing a steep sea and strong winds onto the nose, especially where the sea narrows between the heel of Italy and Albania.

We motor sailed all night, with either Simon or I on the helm, to keep Zulu at the right angle to the waves, and the other dozing in the cockpit. It was a testing night and I was glad we could actually see the waves! We were both more than glad to see the sun rise and the sea turn into flat calm. Due to the conditions, we had gone through a lot more fuel than expected and found ourselves having to shut off the engine and sail in the light breeze very slowly to ensure we had enough fuel to manoeuvre into the tight approach to Dubrovnik.

We had a fabulous month there at the end of the season and were joined by both guests and friends to explore the islands and beautiful towns along the coast. Highly recommended and we will return but allow a couple of months next time as there is just so much to see.

The return passage was 4 up and in much calmer conditions and went without a hitch, an experience we all enjoyed. There is no doubt that passage and coast hopping are two very different types of sailing and that weather forecasting remains an unpredictable science!

Love to see you in 2025

For 2025, we will be focusing on sailing in the Ionian, which really is so beautiful, and there are so many glorious coves to visit and restaurants to dine in. We are sailing in the shoulder seasons to avoid the crowds and heat of high summer.

If you fancy joining us, we would be delighted to welcome you on board. Please see our website www.singlessailingholidays.co.uk for our sailing dates. We will also be doing the Southern Ionian regatta, which is only one or two races and great fun. No experience necessary.

For those of you who would rather holiday on land

We are now able to offer you the opportunity to rent our beautiful house on Corfu whilst we are away. This is very much at mates’ rates and only to people we know. It isn’t a holiday let but an elegant well-furnished home complete with pool, large patio and fabulous views of the sea, the Albanian mountains, and the dramatic green mountains of Corfu to the rear of the property. It is quiet with no passing traffic and nestles in its own olive grove of an acre.

A couple of minutes by car can take you either up the village of Nymphes or down to Platonas. Both have small supermarkets, freshly baked bread, cheeses, local salamis and village wine. What’s not to like?

Within 5 minutes you can be on the beach in Roda or Archaravi to swim in gentle, crystal clear, turquoise waters. A long curve of sand with beachside restaurants and bars and a good local shopping hub. There are also lots of dramatic and beautiful hill walks just on the doorstep, all mapped on walking apps like Komoot. You will need a car.

If you think you would like to come and stay, we can sleep up to four people in two double beds. Just email me on nlsbowen@gmail.com (mailto:nlsbowen@gmail.com)  and we can discuss dates.

I do hope to see some of you, on either on the sea or land, and share with you this incredibly beautiful piece of Greece that we have made our home.

Lots of love to you all, Nicole and Simon.